Sunday, November 29, 2009

A Guide To Vintage Pattern Terminology

If you are considering sewing with vintage patterns, then you will definitely want to learn the terminology. Vintage patterns come with vintage terminology, not all of which may be familiar. Here are some of the terms you might encounter.

1. Continuous Lap: A strip of fabric cut on the straight grain and used to face edges of an opening or slit in a garment.

2. Jabot: A ruffle or cravat-like accent attached to the front of a dress or blouse.

3. Lapped Seam: A seam in which one seam allowance edge is lapped over the seam allowance of its joining piece and stitched.

4. Pin tuck: Very small tucks stitched just a pin's width from the fold to slightly shape a garment piece. In the late 1920's, a series of pin tucks were often applied across the naural waistline of a frock for shaping and detail.

5. Plaits: An array of narrow (known today as "knife") pleats often applied at the hem of a dress, the ends of sleeves, or around the neck opening.

6. Shirring: Three or more rows of gathers made by small running stitches in parallel lines. The rows are spaced as desired.

7. Slide Fastener: The original term for zippers.

8. True Bias: Fabric that is cut at a precise 45-degree angle to the fabric grain line.

9. Toile: The French term for fabric pattern. Originally pertained to the muslin test garment.

Today, with the help of the internet and the popularity of all things vintage, it's easier than every to acquire vintage patterns. Sewing with the real-deal pattern in its original form is a great experience and a fun way to re-create those wonderful designs from the past. I hope the above glossary of terms will help you easily navigate the world ofvintage patterns.

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